広島 – Hiroshima
Hiroshima was a prosperous castle town shaped by samurai, merchants, temples, waterways, and trade before it gained international recognition for the events of 1945. There are still remnants of this earlier Hiroshima scattered throughout the present city, even though a large portion of it has vanished beneath contemporary streets and structures.
At the heart of that earlier city stood Hiroshima Castle, originally constructed in the late 16th century. Much of the castle and surrounding town was destroyed by the atomic bombing, and today’s castle is a faithful reconstruction of the original. It may be smaller than famous Japanese castles such as Himeji Castle, but I still think it’s well worth visiting. The beautiful moat, surrounding grounds and peaceful atmosphere make it a surprisingly relaxing place to explore.
Its location is another major advantage. Hiroshima Castle is within easy walking distance of Peace Memorial Park and the city’s main shopping areas around SOGO and Hondori, making it easy to fit into a day exploring central Hiroshima. During cherry blossom season, the grounds become particularly beautiful, while the nearby Hiroshima Gokoku Shrine and surviving A-bombed trees provide reminders of the city’s more recent history.
Yes, the castle you see today is a reconstruction, but I don’t think that takes away from the experience. You’re still standing where Hiroshima’s original castle once stood, surrounded by the moat and grounds that help reveal what the city was like before 1945. For me, Hiroshima Castle is less about comparing it with Japan’s biggest and most spectacular castles and more about discovering the older Hiroshima that still exists beneath the modern city.
The Birth of Hiroshima Castle Town
The powerful warlord Mōri Terumoto started building Hiroshima Castle on the Ōta River delta in 1589, marking the beginning of Hiroshima’s transformation into a major castle town. Roads, homes, temples, and business areas all grew up around the castle, which soon became the hub of an ever expanding community.
Hiroshima became the capital of the Hiroshima Domain during the Edo period, under the Asano family’s rule starting in 1619. With samurai homes, merchant districts, temples, and shrines encircling the castle, the castle town grew into a meticulously planned urban center. Hiroshima Castle and its grounds are still open to tourists today. The location offers a chance to envision the political and cultural core of the former castle town, despite the fact that the original castle was destroyed during World War II and subsequently rebuilt.
Shukkeien: A Glimpse of Edo-Period Hiroshima
Shukkeien Garden, created in 1620 for the feudal lord of Hiroshima, is among the best surviving examples of this era. Within the bustling castle town, its ponds, bridges, miniature landscapes, and traditional scenery were intended to create a tranquil haven.
Shukkeien provides visitors with a remarkably tranquil connection to the city’s feudal past, in contrast to many other historical sites in Hiroshima. Encircled by well-kept gardens, strolling along its paths today offers a window into the world that Hiroshima’s feudal rulers lived in centuries ago.
Located close to Hiroshima Castle and the city centre, Shukkeien is an easy place to add to a Hiroshima itinerary.
A City Shaped by Water and Trade
Hiroshima’s geography played an important role in its growth. Several branches of the Ōta River flowed through the city before reaching the Seto Inland Sea, providing natural transportation routes for people and goods.
Hiroshima’s location also connected it to ports and islands across the Inland Sea. Boats transported rice, seafood, timber, and other goods, allowing the city to grow into a major trade hub in western Japan.
The rivers are still an important part of Hiroshima today. Walking along the Motoyasu and Ōta rivers, crossing city bridges, or exploring the waterfront offers a unique perspective of Hiroshima’s relationship with water.
Discovering the Lost Castle Town
Walking through modern Hiroshima, it’s difficult to imagine the city before 1945. Many of the landscape’s former samurai residences, merchants’ homes, temples, and waterways have been replaced by modern streets, buildings, shopping districts, and parks.
However, Hiroshima Castle, Shukkeien, historic temples and shrines, and the city’s rivers all point to an earlier era. Exploring these places allows visitors to see beyond Hiroshima’s modern identity and discover the centuries of history that preceded it. The Hiroshima of before 1945 was not simply a city waiting for its modern history to begin. It was a living castle town with its own traditions, communities, architecture, and culture. By visiting the surviving landmarks of this earlier Hiroshima, travellers can follow the city’s story from its samurai past into the vibrant modern city that stands here today.
