箱根八里 – Hakone Hachiri
Long before Japan’s modern highways and railways, the Tokaido Road was one of the country’s most important travel routes. During the Edo Period (1603–1868), it connected Edo, present-day Tokyo, with Kyoto, carrying merchants, pilgrims, samurai, officials and daimyo across Japan. The mountainous Hachiri, which traversed the precipitous Hakone mountains between Odawara and Mishima, was the most difficult part. In 1601, the Tokaido and its post towns were formally established by the Tokugawa Shogunate, and Hakone played a significant role in this network. Parts of the Old Tokaido Highway are still remarkably intact today. Experience a setting that feels remarkably similar to Samurai Japan by strolling along its historic stone paths beneath towering cedar trees.
For me, Hakone Hachiri is a great way to get out, get some exercise and enjoy nature. If you enjoy walking and want a break from the crowds of Tokyo or Kyoto, the old trail offers a peaceful change of pace. The forest paths, towering cedar trees and mountain scenery make the journey just as enjoyable as the history behind it.
What I particularly like is that you’re not simply walking through another tourist attraction — you’re following a route that samurai, merchants, pilgrims and travellers have been using for centuries. Take your time, stop for a rest, explore the surrounding areas and enjoy the scenery. Along the way, you can discover Lake Ashi, Onshi Park and other historic sites, with the possibility of beautiful views towards Mount Fuji when conditions are right.
You don’t have to be a serious hiker either. Whether you’re looking for a proper walk or simply want to spend a few hours surrounded by nature, Hakone Hachiri is a fantastic way to experience a quieter, more traditional side of Japan — and a great opportunity to work off some of all that amazing Japanese food!
The Stone-Paved Path: Ishidatami
One of the most atmospheric parts of the trail is the Ishidatami, or stone-paved road. Before the stones were laid, the steep Hakone route could become extremely muddy in wet weather. In 1680, the Tokugawa Shogunate paved sections of the route with stone to make travel easier and safer. Even now, the uneven stones are still under your feet. You feel a real connection to the travellers that traversed the path centuries ago when you stroll across them in the middle of the forest.
Amazake Chaya: A 400-Year-Old Rest Stop
Amazake Chaya offers the ideal spot to rest after completing the trail’s steep sections.
Since the Edo period (Amasake chaya was founded over 400 years ago), this traditional thatched-roof teahouse has existed next to the historic path. As in the past, travellers can still pause for chikara mochi rice cakes and warm amazake, a sweet fermented rice beverage.
“Amazake-cyaya 01” by Aimaimyi, used under CC BY-SA 3.0
Daderot. (2016). Ancient Cedar Avenue, Hakone old road – Hakone, Japan – DSC05946 [Photograph]. Wikimedia Commons. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Ancient_Cedar_Avenue,Hakone_old_road-_Hakone,Japan-_DSC05946.jpg
Walk Beneath the Ancient Cedar Avenue
The trail enters one of its most breathtaking sections—the Cedar Avenue—near Moto-Hakone.
This 500-meter section of the former roadway is lined with more than 400 massive cedar trees. Many are over 350 years old, and some are as tall as thirty meters.
In the past, travellers traversing the highlands might find cover and shade from the tall trees. Their massive trunks now form a serene, calm passageway between Lake Ashi and the forest.
The Checkpoint: The Sekisho
A trip along the Old Tokaido would not be complete without stopping at the Checkpoint (Hakone Sekisho).
This significant Edo-era checkpoint, which controlled traffic along the Tokaido, was situated next to Lake Ashi. Hakone served as a crucial administrative and defensive hub along the route as officials examined passengers and cargo.
Since then, historical records and archaeological data have been used to meticulously rebuild the checkpoint. The gates, guard buildings, lookout places, and other features that replicate the ambiance of the original Edo Period station are open for exploration by visitors.
